Shoshone Lake, Yellowstone, Idaho

Shoshone Lake

Location: Shoshone Lake, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming
USGS Quad(s):
Trip dates: Late June
Why go?: Spectacular wilderness, wildlife, geyser basin, fishing, adventure
Water: um, you're in a canoe
Human traffic: Moderated by Yellowstone park
Difficulty: With perfect weather and no bugs, this would be an easy trip. Including those variables, it can be a highly stressful trip
GPS Coordinates of interest: I've lost them, but the geyser basin is next to the north-west corner of Shoshone Lake
Important details: (1) since this is a very popular trip for scout, church, and other such groups Yellowstone park limits traffic. You must send in an application, specifying the number in your party, intended campsites, and camp dates. It is important to do this as soon as the opening date as possible as you might not get your trip reservation. (2) Early summer means bugs and Yellowstone backcountry means A LOT of mosquitoes. (3) You need to bring rope so you can string your backpack up the tree stands they've built (to minimize bear attraction)

Introduction

The route for Shoshone lake trip is within Yellowstone park back country. The only way into Shoshone Lake is either by boat and paddle or foot. We decided to canoe into the area. The only lake entrance is at the boat ramp on Lewis Lake, south of Shoshone Lake. Motors are allowed on Lewis Lake but not Shoshone Lake. Luckily, my father-in-law has a small outboard motor and wanted to come. He used that to motor all 3 canoes (the motor was on our canoe in front and the other 2 were tied on by rope – a water train) across Lewis lake and then north along the west bank. Just before the mouth of Lewis River we stashed the motor in the bushes, about 100 yards off the bank, and noted the spot with GPS.

There were 7 people in the party: Michael and I in his canoe; K.C and Seyi in Ted's canoe; Ryan, Alec, and Doug in a borrowed canoe – the biggest of the 3.

Day 1

The trip across Lewis Lake is slightly dangerous, as high winds often pick up, especially in the afternoons. Thus, it is important to head straight west as you launch so you cross the lake a fairly narrow point and then progress north along the western bank.

Lewis River flows south (from Shoshone Lake into Lewis Lake). It is a slow paddle until about a mile below Shoshone Lake where the river moves too quickly for paddling. At this point, we had to wade in the river and push/pull the canoes the rest of the way to Shoshone Lake. Note: there are bears in Yellowstone. We made the mistake of allowing those (slackers) who did not push/pull the canoes to walk individually along the side of the river. That was our first mistake but luckily nothing happened. The brush was thick and if one strayed even a little from the river they may have become disoriented. We had a couple novice outdoors men with us and could have either lost them to bears or the wilderness.

Just kidding about the slacker comment above. Actually, the people who did most of the walking were Doug, Ryan, and his son Alec. Ryan's sandal broke early on the push and started falling back so Seyi took his place. Alec, at the time, was too small to wade the river safely. I'm not sure why Doug didn't push, except that K.C seemed to be doing fine. Michael, my father-in-law, pushed half way and I pushed the other.

We stopped for lunch at the mouth of the river as it drains out of Shoshone Lake. We had already spotted a number of bald eagles and saw more as we ate. This memory remains in my head as one of my favorite of the trip. The sun was warm and as I sat, trying to dry out and eat, I felt very calm and soaked up the scene.

Once at Shoshone Lake, there are a number of camp sites. As mentioned already, you have to reserve the campsites. We camped about 2 miles west of the mouth of Lewis River the first night.

Soon after locating our first camp is when we realized the mosquitoes problem. We encountered swarms and swarms of mosquitoes. It was almost impossible to breath and eat without swarms of mosquitoes flying into our eyes, mouths, and ears. Luckily, we all had bug repellant. This saved us from many bites, I'm sure. It did not save us from a thick swarm of mosquitoes hovering around any exposed skin; ANY exposed skin (toilet trips were expedited). If I ever return on this trip, I'm going to pack mosquitoes net, at least to drape over my face. This was Alec's first trip, and I think the bugs made him miserable. I have heard from others that the bugs are not nearly as bad later in the summer, but I will not chance it.

On this trip you must plan for rain, hail, and snow. Even during the summer. It rained every afternoon we were there. We actually welcomed a good hard rain as the mosquitoes would retreat while it rained (but only if it was raining very hard).

Day 2

The second day, we canoed to the far north-west corner of the Shoshone lake. To cross the lake, you should either cross at the narrow stretch in the middle of the lake, or follow the shore line. This is vitally important to remember. People have died not following this advice. High winds frequently pick up, especially in the afternoons. We never crossed the lake in the afternoon, but if we did I would have insisted that we follow the shore instead of expose ourselves to a mile or more of paddling across open water.

Once we made it to the north-west corner, we hauled the canoes onto shore and turned them over. That day’s destination was a 3 mile pack off the lake. We ate lunch and hunkered down through a quick drizzle, and then started into the hike. What a great hike!

First, the trail winds through a small geyser basin which is only accessible by foot. We had it all to ourselves. I was inches away from small geysers and mud holes. The path is clearly marked and I recommend you not stray. Likely burn injuries would be highly dangerous in this environment, so far from help. At one point, steaming water crossed the path and was scalding to the touch.

The trail winds North and West, following a slight draw and stream as it flows down the hillside. There is a river crossing about 2 miles up the trail. There are two narrow trees on which you should cross as the stream is at least 15 yards wide.

The camp site sits on top of a knoll in pine and quaky grove. To the west is a ridge marking the continental divide. I had originally planned to walk up to the top so I could straddle the divide. Rain threatened though, and we didn’t want to risk lightning on the ridge.

Instead we decided to have a contest to see who could stand the longest without swatting at mosquitoes. When I say we, it really means K.C, Ryan, and I. I won, but had only just applied bug spray. We have video footage of hundreds of mosquitoes on K.C’s back, neck, and face with K.C squealing like a little girl. It’s hilarious.

Day 3

The next morning we hiked back to the canoes and started back across the lake. We tried to get out early as we did not want to try a lake crossing after noon. It turns out that we made the right decision.

As we crossed, the canoes became somewhat separated, more than usual. This was not a problem as we all had the UTM coordinates for our next campsite (on the south side of the lake again). We crossed the lake a couple hundred yards from the western shore without incident. Michael and I decided to take a stroll on the south west corner of the lake as we both though we saw a large mammal moving through the trees. The ground was wet – more marsh than anything else. We didn’t see anything but water.

Once we were back on the lake, the wind started to pick up a little. Ryan, Doug, and Alec waited for us while K.C and Seyi paddled ahead. As we paddled along the south shore, right at the narrow neck separating the west and east side of the lake, someone said, “what’s that sound?” It sounded like someone was shaking a heavy plastic tarp just to the north of us. As we turned, we could see a storm coming. The narrow of the lake is about 1 mile wide. We watched as the storm began crossing the lake with, what we thought was rain, dumping from the dark clouds. I started looking for my poncho, getting more and more excited the longer it took to find. (I’m told I started yelling, “where’s my poncho, where’s my poncho!” although I doubt I yelled it.)

It was only a short moment before the storm hit us. We were next to the shore, but it was a vertical climb of more than 20’ before firm ground so we grabbed what foliage was available and rode out the storm. It was not rain though, that hit us. It was wind driven hail, the size of jaw breakers. We were all exhilarated. I’m not the only one who hooped and hollered like we were on a roller coaster. And then, as quickly as it started, it was over.

We found K.C and Seyi not far ahead, reporting a similar experience. Luckily they too were close to shore when it hit.

Than afternoon at camp, we watched another storm crash through. I sat in the tent, feeling the ground shake with each clap of thunder. I have yet to experience anything of such force yet in my life. Latter that evening, as the storm moved south and east, a ranger paddled by. He informed us that trees in one of the camps just to the west of us had been blown over by the wind. That evening was the most pleasant of the trip as the bugs seemed to have given up after such a storm.

Day 4

This is the morning that sits in my memory, the one to which I compare all other mornings in the wilderness. We woke to thick fog silently rolling off the lake, seeping into everything. It was beautiful. As we paddled onto the lake, we quickly lost sight of camp in the fog and had to stay bundled up until well into the morning when the mist finally started to give way to rising sun.

The trip back down Lewis River was exciting. We decided to float the whole way. We could see strips of paint and fiberglass on some of the bigger rocks but we managed to navigate without major incident.

It was an easy walk to Michael’s motor once at the mouth of Lewis Lake and then smooth sailing back to the cars after that. Luckily I was on the front of the lead canoe as the other two canoes broke into a water fight.

Summary

Everyone who went on this trip desperately wants to do it again, only later in the summer when there are less bugs. I will take my pole the next time and catch some of those monster lake trout that supposedly live under the surface.

Middle Basin, Uinta Mountains

Location: Middle Basin, Uinta Mountains, Utah
USGS Quad(s):
Trip date(s): June 2002
Why go?: Solitude, beautiful scenery, good fishing
Water: All over the place
Human Traffic: Moderate
Difficulty: Getting into the basin is a matter of following the trail. If you do it in one shot it could be considered difficult because there is a good climb at the end of a 5 or 6 (or more, who knows?) mile hike. Once you’re in the basin there are a number of exploration possibilities which require some moderate orienteering (or GPS) skills – at least someone who can remember which way camp is.

Introduction
We went up in mid-June and it was cold at night. There were still a few snow drifts, but just enough to keep a fish chilled until it was time to cook. The fishing was fast for the guy who brought his fly rod and decent for the rest.

Special Features
Mountain goats. Good fishing (pretty brook fish). Solitude. Quiet.

Trip Log
Day one: Starting at Christmas meadows campground on north east slope of Uinta Mountains, we hiked almost 8 miles into middle basin, camping near “lake desolation,” just east of Ryder Lake. (Lake Desolation was named by the group as the topo did not indicate a name. We were really tired when we stopped.) The hike was beautiful the whole way but long and tiring, especially for old fat guys, and young and skinny guys. Once we made camp, it cooled off enough that all we wanted to do was eat dinner and then go to bed. It was cold that first night, with ice covering shallow water in the morning.
Day two: I woke up early, eating breakfast and then pumping some water. We noticed big cat tracks (maybe mountain lion – who knows? We’re not the best with scat and tracks. It appeared as if the claws were retracted, possibly indicating a cat. The paw was about 4” in diameter.) near the water, between “lake desolation” and Ryder lake. As most of the group fished in Ryder lake, I went with Greg just below the base of Hayden peak (on the east side). We climbed above the tree line, paying attention to scat and tracks.
Once above the tree line there was a lot of cat scat. We glimpsed some mountain goats, moving white specs near the summit of Hayden Peak. Just below the peak they disappeared into some scrub bush. We sat, quietly, waiting for either the goats or a cat to appear, but grew restless after a while so we descended back to Ryder lake. Most of the group fished the afternoon away. I wandered to the southern side of the basin, hoping to see some wildlife but was disappointed.
Day 3: Greg and Eric left, being expected home by that evening (sissies). From what I understand, Eric fell backward into a huge mud puddle on the way down. Greg laughed a lot and Eric didn’t. That seems like a hilarious scene to me.
Ryan and K.C and I stayed for one more day, exploring much of the basin. We walked the breadth of the basin from north to south, K.C and Ryan fishing in the small lakes near the south side (and were skunked) while I read a book. That night we ate dinner, watched the stars for a cold moment, and then went to bed. As this was my first backpack since I was 16, I froze that night, not being prepared for the cold nights. I had carried only a light sleeping bag with me on this trip and had hoped that if I squeezed into Ryan and K.C’s tent I’d be okay – that wasn’t the case. Besides the cold, I had to endure Ryan’s stench.
Day 4: We ate breakfast and hiked out. Honestly, I was not happy to leave. This had been probably the most relaxing 4 days I’d had since being a young kid and would spur annual or bi-annual (and sometimes tri-annual) backpacks in successive years. Our families met us at Mirror Lake for tinfoil dinner. What a great way to end a backpack!

Notes
As yet, neither I nor any of my fellow backpackers had invested in a GPS unit (in fact, I still haven’t. I use an old one I “inherited” from my dad when he kicked-off). Therefore, I have no exact GPS coordinates. Middle basin is pretty open though and it is, in my opinion, paradise on earth. I have nothing but pleasant memories of that place.

useful backcountry links

Honestly, I have yet to find really useful outdoor sites. Here are some of the links I depend on while preparing for backcountry trips. Preparation is the key. Once, I spent 4 days in Southern Utah in a place called Dark Canyon. It took us almost 24 hours to find water so we ended up base camping near the water hole. I also forgot to mark my topo with documented NA ruins. We still had a great time, but our travel was limited and we didn’t see the main goal for traveling down there – Indian ruins.

Weather
Topo peek
Fishing
Gear List

It’s really more about the types of links I have above – weather, location details (topo), fishing, and gear lists. What else do you need to know?

Introduction

 So, I’m not anxious to share locations, trails, coordinates, and such about my back country destinations. But, I’m confident there will only be a few people who lay eyes on this blogg. Also, if you found this blogg and you really have the drive to go to these destinations, I’m willing to share. Just don’t mess them up (i.e. remove your trash, dig deep cat holes, don’t build fires, and so on).

I’ll try to stay politically neutral. All I will say is: wilderness is extremely important and 4-wheelers, logging, and mining are an abomination. There is so much room to ride 4-wheelers in NA that what little wilderness we have should be protected. All that oil that is supposedly in Southern Utah that some people think should be mined is a farce. If some of those towns down there, craving money from mines, would change their message as a pristine wilderness stop, they would do a lot better. Just look at Moab.

One other thing – let it burn! I don’t see why we keep wasting all the money to extinguish forest fires when we could just let it burn, like it would if we weren’t around to interfere. If we did that, all of the old forests with piles of deadwood would be replaced by new forest. It’s just piling up, waiting to burn, and burning all the hotter with the deadwood around. If we let it burn, the fires wouldn’t be nearly as bad and it would save us a lot of tax money.

There you go. Now you know how I feel about wilderness. The rest of these bloggs should be about wilderness journeys with some important GPS coordinates. I tend to walk slow, look around, and fish once-in-a-while.